On New Island we hiked to a high rock outcrop with cliffs rising straight from the sea. At the top of the cliff there was a combined seabird colony containing hundreds upon hundreds of shags (cormorants), an albatross species, and Rockhopper Penguins.

What struck me first about the Rockhoppers was their punk appearance, with feathers sticking up all over the head as if plastered in place with hair gel (how can Rockhopper teenagers rebel when their parents already look like that?).

The other thing that struck me was how the Rockhoppers walk on land. They really do hop! Imagine a child jumping up and forward, springing off both legs. That is how a Rockhopper moves; and to see a line of them heading toward the sea, hopping one after another, is unforgettable.

The Rockhoppers fish at sea for krill, and upon returning to the colony they propel themselves up out of the sea like a rocket and land on the rocky coast. The parents take turns fishing and guarding the nest site against predators. Later, the young birds, when nearly full grown, come together in a crèche with other young birds while the parents both go fishing (or is it "krilling"?).